Engaging eats at TAG

I came for the pop rocks.

Braving the vibrant, hip crowds of Larimer Square on a Saturday night, I approached relative newcomer TAG with thoughtful anticipation. A pop rock accented dish – genius or gimmick? With a menu of self-proclaimed “continental social food,” the skeptic in me pondered why the apparently more pedestrian “tapas” description wouldn’t suffice…pretentious eats are not fun, and I was dubious.

The lure of the crackling accoutrements was too much, though – through the doors and into the warmly lit, narrow space we went. After much back and forth, my companions and I quickly realized we had narrowed our first round to nearly every dish on the starter menu. Our laid back waiter laughed and shrugged this off as commonplace.

Thirsty in the meanwhile, we cracked open the wine list and sifted through the weighty tome. Offput by the overwhelming, expensive, and cheekily self-aware wine list, we turned to the bar made famous by celebrated bar magician Mike Henderson for a coconut mojito. The result was a bright, clean, coconut water - laced libation whose tropical nuances were sadly overshadowed by a serious wallop of rum.

All wounds were healed by the arrival of the flash seared Hiramasa, wading in a piquant, vinegary pool of yuzu and topped with jalapeno slivers and exotic myoga – and of course, the crackling chorus of orange pop rocks. The buttery soft portions of yellowtail soothed the palate, quietly supporting the bolder flavors of the yuzu and jalapeno. And the pop rocks? A barely there hint of citrus – but perhaps more importantly, the ingredient served as a conversation piece and small delight accenting the success of the dish.

As we passed plates and chattered about the merits of each, I began to comprehend the ‘social’ aspect of the restaurant’s mantra. Created with a wink from Executive Chef Troy Guard, the playful starters are meant to engage the diner, setting the table atwitter upon delivery. The taco sushi arrived with just such a flair – rather than the standard rice-and-nori vehicle, petite, crunchy taco shells were delivered cradling delicate tidbits of tuna with a kick of mango salsa and guacamole. The dish was a table favorite that had diners crunching away and swatting wrists for the last bite.

The tropical twists throughout the evening connected diners with Executive Chef Troy Guard’s Hawaiian roots – the Li-Hing mango salsa, fresh tropical cocktails, Asian influences – all proved a welcome escape from the frosty December evening.

The main courses, though appetizing and skillfully executed, lacked some of the verve of the inventive starters. The Szechuan Colorado Lamb was a seared, glistening chop cooked to ruby perfection– but only the faintest hint of sweet-hot marinade asserted itself. Given the wow factors of our previous dishes, I looked forward to a bolder showing. The dish was, however, pleasantly plated over a bed of nubby couscous soaked with lip smacking, umami-rich dragon sauce. Still discussing the Hiramasa a few plates past, we forged onward.

After much bargaining and promises to exchange bites, our group settled on a select few desserts from a list shockingly devoid of crème brûlée or chocolate lava cake derivations. A cup of loosely arranged piping hot churros arrived and disappeared in a flash. Crisp on the outside and pillowy within, these cinnamon-sugar dusted batons elevated the street cart favorite and lent another continental nod to mexico.

In spite of its weighty name, the sticky toffee cake was featherlight and traced with the nutty-sweet essence of its namesake confection. The tart raspberry passion sauce effectively sliced through the heady lusciousness of the cake, while a subtly flavored quenelle of bourbon butterscotch ice cream drizzled lazily over the cake’s edge. After knocking away a couple of superfluous ganache truffles , I indulged in the perfectly portioned sweet.

These fresh, fun concoctions seek to engage the diner and make that crucial link between food and experience. Sharing not just a plate of food, but a quirky, playful dining experience, allows TAG to distinguish itself from typical tapas fare.